文献类型：期刊文献

中文题名：锦/氨针织物油茶籽壳色素媒染染色

英文题名：Mordant dyeing of nylon/spandex knitted fabric with Camellia oleifera shell pigment

作者：王华清[1] 赵宝艳[1] 夏建明[1] 赵耘霄[2] 王龙飞[3] 金阳波[4]

第一作者：王华清

机构：[1]宁波市纺织服装智能制造技术重点实验室,染整研究所,浙江宁波315211;[2]中国林业科学研究院亚热带林业研究所,浙江杭州311400;[3]现代纺织技术创新中心(鉴湖实验室),浙江绍兴312000;[4]浙江禾绚科技有限公司,浙江义乌322000

年份：2025

卷号：51

期号：9

起止页码：29-34

中文期刊名：印染

外文期刊名：China Dyeing and Finishing

收录：;北大核心:【北大核心2023】；

基金：宁波市先进纺织技术与服装CAD重点实验室开放基金项目(2022ZDSY5-B-003);宁波市纺织服装智能制造技术重点实验室开放基金项目(2024ZDSYS-E-005)。

语种：中文

中文关键词：植物染料;媒染;油茶籽壳色素;锦/氨针织物

外文关键词：plant dye;mordant dyeing;Camellia oleifera shell pigment;nylon/spandex knitted fabric

分类号：TS193.62

摘要：采用油茶籽壳色素对锦/氨织物进行染色,探讨了色素用量、染液pH、染色温度、染色时间、媒染剂种类及媒染方式对织物染色效果的影响,利用正交试验获得天然油茶籽壳色素锦/氨织物的最佳染色工艺,并测试了染色织物的色牢度。结果表明,直接染色最佳工艺为:色素质量浓度4 g/L,染色温度100℃,染色时间40 min,pH 4.5。三种媒染方法对试样K/S值的影响顺序为:预媒染>后媒染>同浴媒染;使用无水氯化钙预媒法染色的织物色差值最小,且对色光影响也不大,最佳预媒染工艺为:媒染剂质量分数3%(omf),媒染温度70℃,时间30 min;媒染处理后织物的耐耐摩擦色牢度、沾色牢度均达4~5级及以上,变色牢度达3~4级,比直接染色工艺提高0.5~1级。
Camellia oleifera shell pigment is used to dye nylon/spandex knitted fabric.The effects of pigment dosage,pH,dyeing temperature and time,mordant kinds and mordanting methods on dyeing performance are analyzed.The optimal dyeing process of nylon/spandex fabrics with Camellia oleifera shell pigment is obtained by orthogonal experiments and the color fastnesses of the dyed fabrics are tested.The experimental results show that the optimal direct dyeing process conditions are pigment concentration 4 g/L,dyeing temperature 100℃,dyeing time 40 min and pH 4.5.The premordant dyeing has the biggest influence on the K/S value,followed by post mordant dyeing and one bath dyeing.Premordanting process with anhydrous calcium chloride as mordant results in the smallest color difference and little effect on the color light of nylon/spandex knitted fabric,and its optimized process is:mordant dosage 3%(omf),mordanting temperature 70℃and mordanting time 30 min.The color fastnesses to rubbing and staining of the dyeings reach Grade 4-5 or above,and the fastness of color change reaches Grade 3-4,which is 0.5-1 level higher than those of direct dyed fabric.